Icebiking (also referred to as snowbiking or winter biking) is the activity of cycling in winter weather with snow, ice, and slush. As in warm months, people bike in winter for several reasons. Bike commuters cycle to work for exercise or to save on parking and gas costs. Recreational snow or ice-bikers include off-road bikers who ride on snowmobile trails with underinflated, fat tires and ice-bikers who use frozen streams, ponds, or rivers, or who race on iced-over lakes.

Winter roads may have less space for cars and bicycles to share, when snowbanks line the roads. To maintain control of a bike on icy roads, cyclists need a different riding style than they would use in summer. Icebikers tend to ride more slowly and cautiously, be more upright on turns, and avoid using the front brake on icy roads, because front braking can lead to skidding and crashing.

Icebikers usually wear several layers of protective clothing to keep warm, including insulating layers such as fleece and wind- and water-resistant outer shell layers. Protecting the extremities (feet and hands) from the potentially frostbite-causing effects of subzero windchill is a particular challenge, as is keeping wind off the face.

Some icebikers use special bike gear to deal with the inclement weather, such as metal-studded tires to improve traction, enclosed chain cases and internal hub gears to shield the drive train from ice and hub brakes or enclosed drum brakes, which can operate even when the wheel rims are caked in ice. Winter bikers may have to clean caked-on ice and snow from brake pads, rims, and derailleur cassettes during and after a ride, to remove corrosive road salt and metal-wearing grit and sand from chains and derailleurs.

Techniques and equipment

Staying warm

Types of climates and riding

Winter cyclists in different climates use different types of clothing. In cool, wet winter climates in coastal areas such as Oregon, Scotland, and Maine, there is a great deal of cold rain, heavy, thick snow, periods of quickly forming ice. Cool dry prairie areas have high winds and drifting snow. Very cold areas such as Canadian prairies, Interior Alaska, Greenland, Interior Norway, and Finland have dry powdery snow, gusting winds, and extreme wind-chill effects.

Another consideration is the length of the ride, and the remoteness of the setting: whether it is a 30-minute commute in a city or a day-long outing in a wilderness area. In a city area,a winter biker with a flat tire or mechanical problem can warm up at a fast-food restaurant, lock up the bike and get home in a bus or taxi. A winter biker in a wilderness area, dismounting to solve a mechanical problem, may get dangerously chilled during this period of inactivity.

In moderate winter climates, such as in the US midwest, the main cold issue faced by winter bikers is keeping the extremities (feet and hands) warm. In these climates, the body core and limbs can be kept warm fairly easily by layering insulation layers and wind resistant shells. In more extreme winter climates, such as in northern Canada, Alaska, and Scandinavian countries, where winter temperatures may drop to -30 Celsius or lower, it can be more difficult to keep warm while winter biking. Thick, insulated winter outerwear designed for other winter sports may help.

The amount of insulation needed depends on exertion level and metabolism, and so typically must be determined by experimentation by each individual. Typically the right amount leads to feeling slightly cold for the first few minutes, after which the exertion leads to a comfortable temperature. In winter weather, it is important for cyclists to stay dry, because the body loses heat faster when it is wet. There are two sources of moisture for winter bikers: self-generated moisture from perspiration and moisture from icy rain or slush thrown up from the road.

Outerwear and accessories

Further information: Layered clothing

To avoid getting chilled from perspiration, winter cyclists should wear clothing in layers, so that they can remove outer shells as they become warmed up. As well, the type of material is important. Cotton absorbs perspiration readily and loses its insulation ability when wet, and it dries slowly. Both wool and synthetics such as pile and fiberfill retain much more of their insulation capability when wet. Inexpensive waterproof shells may not be able to vent moisture properly, as a basic uncoated shell or a more expensive waterproof-breathable shell can do. It is hard to keep the feet dry, because they are constantly being sprayed with tire spray and spray from passing traffic. This can be remedied with fenders, shoe covers, and Gore-Tex sock liners.

Keeping feet warm can be more difficult than in other activities such as snowshoeing or cross-country skiing, because the feet tend to be less active in cycling. In areas with moderate winter temperatures, ice bikers may wear sandals with a number of layers of wool socks. In colder climates, cyclists may wear thermal overshoes, thick snowmobiling boots, or oversized shoes with several layers of thick socks. Another option is to use battery-operated electrical foot warmers or chemical heating pads.

Keeping hands warm can also be challenging. This may be because a tight grip on the handlebars and brakes both inhibits circulation and allows heat conduction into the ice-cold handlebars. Types of gloves and mittens are discussed in a separate article. If it is really cold, some cyclists use pogies—insulated covers that fit over the handlebars of a bicycle. The rider puts the hands into the open end and has full access to the bike’s controls. The rider can use pogies either barehanded or with normal riding gloves. They are a common sight in Alaska during the winter.

Keeping the head and face warm is challenging because of wind on the face and because a helmet is often worn for safety, but bicycle helmets are usually designed to maximize ventilation for hot-weather use. Helmet covers can be used to close the vents. A thin knit cap or technical beanie can fit under a helmet to increase insulation; thicker insulation under a helmet requires adjusting the helmet or switching to a larger size helmet. Balaclavas made for use with helmets that have a thin top portion and a thicker lower portion can be useful.

Many icebikers use ski helmets, which often have adjustable ventilation and come with warm linings and ear flaps, and are designed for use with ski goggles. Ear flaps are also available for bicycle helmets. Ski goggles and neoprene face masks are useful for keeping the face warm and protecting from frostbite in very cold weather. In very cold climates with extreme wind chill effects, a snowmobiling helmet with a face visor may be used. Snowmobiling helmets are preferred to motorcycle helmets because they have features designed to prevent fogging of the face shield.

Control and braking

To maintain control of a bike on icy roads, cyclists need to use a different riding style than they would use during summer months. In the summer, cyclists usually turn by shifting their body weight and "leaning into" a turn. On an icy road, angling the bike even to a small degree may lead to a loss of control and a fall. As a result, winter cyclists riding on icy roads tend to ride more slowly, and more upright on turns.

As well, on icy roads, riders need to change how they use their brakes. In summer weather, on a dry road, a cyclist can stop quickly by using both brakes, with much of the braking accomplished by using the front brake. In the winter, the brake pads and rims may be covered with slush and snow, which means that it may take a lot longer to stop the bike. As well, on an icy surface, any use of the front brake can lead to a loss of control and a fall onto the roadway. Some winter cyclists prefer to use the rear brake, which tends to cause a controllable skidding effect on an icy road. When a bike goes into a skid during rear-tire braking, the skid can be controlled by easing up on the rear brake and by using a foot as a stabilizer or "outrigger."

In some extreme conditions, such as black ice, any use of the front brake may lead to a loss of control. In these conditions, it is best to use the front tire exclusively for steering, and use the back tire for cautious braking.

For riding on ice, studded tires greatly increase control. Turning or braking on ice without studded tires can easily lead to falling. Nokian Renkaat, Bike Nashbar, Innova, and Continental provide studded bicycle tires. On snow, studded tires are not needed, except for the possibility of hitting icy spots which are hidden by snow. In deep snow, wide, low-pressure tires, sometimes on special wide rims, improve the ability to "float" on the snow. With relatively little snow on the pavement, narrow, high-pressure tires can "cut through" the snow and grip the pavement better.

Visibility

Winter brings shorter daylight hours which frequently means riding in dusk or dark conditions. Winter weather such as snow flurries and blowing snow can make it harder for drivers to see cyclists. Moreover, windshields and side mirro

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