Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection. It contrasts with traditional climbing, in which the rock is typically devoid of fixed anchors, and climbers must place removable protection as they climb. Since the need to place protection is virtually eliminated, sport climbing places an emphasis on gymnastic ability, strength and endurance, as opposed to adventure, risk and self-sufficiency. As artificial means are used primarily for safety rather than to make upward progress, sport climbing is considered a form of free climbing.
Basics
A route suitable for sport climbing has pre-placed bolts following a line up a rock face. Sport climbs are typically between 20 and 120 feet in length, and have eight to twelve bolts (some routes may have as few as three bolts, while other routes may have twenty-five or more).
Sport climbing can be undertaken with relatively little equipment. Equipment used in sport climbing includes:
- A dynamic rope
- Quickdraws
- A belay device
- Climbing harnesses for belayer and climber
- A few runners
- A helmet
- Climbing Shoes and chalk bag are normally used, although not technically necessary
To lead a sport climb is to ascend a route with a rope tied to the climber's harness, and with the loose end of the rope handled by a belayer. As each bolt is reached along the route, the climber attaches a quickdraw to the bolt, and then clips the rope through the hanging end of the quickdraw. This bolt is now protecting the climber in the event of a fall. At the top of sport routes, there is typically a two-bolt anchor that can be used to return the climber to the ground or previous rappel point.
Because sport routes do not require placing protection, the climber can concentrate on the difficulty of the moves rather than placing protection or the consequences of a fall.
Sport climbing differs from traditional climbing with respect to the type and placement of protection. Traditional climbing uses mostly removable protection (such as cams or nuts), and tends to minimize the usage of pre-placed protection. Sport climbing typically involves single pitch routes, whereas traditional climbing can include single-pitch routes as well as longer, multi-pitch ascents. There are areas like El Potrero Chico that feature multi-pitch sport climbs, but longer routes generally lack pre-placed anchors due to economical, logistical or ethical reasons.
Rock types that produce good sport climbs include limestone, granite and quartzite, though sport climbs can be found on almost all rock types.
Ratings
Main article: Climbing gradeSport climbs are assigned subjective ratings to indicate difficulty. The type of rating depends on the geographic location of the route, since different countries and climbing communities use different rating systems.
The Ewbank rating system, used in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, is a numerical open-ended system, starting from 1, which you can (at least in theory) walk up, up to 34 (as of 2008).
The French rating system considers the overall difficulty of the climb, taking into account the difficulty of the moves and the length of climb. This differs from most grading systems where one rates a climbing route according to the most difficult section (or single move). Grades are numerical, starting at 1 (very easy), and the system is open-ended. Each numerical grade can be subdivided by adding a letter (a, b or c). Examples: 2, 4, 4b, 6a, 7c. An optional + (no -) may be used to further differentiate difficulty. Many countries in Europe use a system with similar grades but not necessarily matching difficulties. Sport climbing in Britain and Ireland uses the French grading system, often prefixed with the letter "F".
In the United States, the Yosemite Decimal System is used to rate sport climbs. Current grades for sport routes vary between 5.0 (very, very easy) to 5.15 (ridiculously hard), although the system is open-ended. Past 5.10, letter grades between a and d are sometimes used for further subdivision (e.g. 5.11a or 5.10d). Pluses and minuses may also be used (e.g. 5.9+ or 5.11-). Originally, the YDS rating was designed to rate the difficulty of the hardest move on a given route. However, modern sport grades often take into account other features such as length and sustainedness.
Ethics
The ethics climbers adopt toward their sport are not always steadfast, and they often depend on the venue. The following examples are merely outlines that do not always hold true.
Bolting
Whether a route should be bolted as a sport climb is often in dispute. In some areas, including some in the United States, if a route cannot be safely climbed with the use of traditional gear, it is acceptable to bolt it. However, in much of the U.K., similar bolting is widely considered unacceptable. Additionally, the method of bolting may often be challenged. Many early sport routes were bolted on lead by the first ascentionist.
First Ascents
Sometimes, a newly bolted route is considered "red tagged," and ethics dictate that the person who bolted the route should be the only climber to attempt it until they can send it. Other times, the bolter will allow the route they developed to become an "open project" that anyone can try. Ascents of reserved routes have led to a number of controversies in the sport climbing world.
Chipping, Comfortizing, and Reinforcing
Changing the natural features of rock is often frowned upon, but in many parts of the world it is still accepted to some extent. At some areas, "chipping" of the rock with a chisel or similar tool to create a hold that did not exist naturally is considered acceptable. This is particularly true in some quarries as well as some European crags. However, at many other areas, local ethics absolutely forbid this.
Comfortizing holds often involves aggressively cleaning a route to the point where sharp holds have been filed down, often making them somewhat easier to use. While many climbers frown on this, in some areas comfortizing is considered acceptable to a point.
Reinforcing rock with glue is the most widely accepted modification to natural features in the sport climbing world. When a popular route is climbed over and over, holds may become looser and closer to breaking. Sometimes, these holds will be reinforced to prevent them from breaking. Other times, if a hold entirely breaks off, it may be glued back on. In most areas, these practices are considered acceptable if done neatly.
Sending
Sometimes, an ascent or the style in which it is done will come into dispute. For example, a leader who experiences tension on their rope from their belayer while climbing without falling may have not made a valid ascent, through no fault of their own. Additionally, the line between an onsight and a flash is often disputed. Some climbers consider any knowledge of a route, including its grade, to be beta that invalidates an onsight. However, other climbers will go so far as to belay another climber on a route and still claim that they did not have enough prior knowledge to move from the onsight realm to the flash realm.
Not Sending
If a climber fails to onsight or flash a route, they may decide to "work" it by attempting to climb it despite falling and hanging on the rope. However, at popular destinations, multiple parties of climbers will often line up to try a route. A climber working a route may spend an inordinate amount of time on it, preventing other parties from climbing it. This is often frowned upon, particularly if the climber is toproping rather than leading.
Not sending a route means that a climber was unable to finish or top out a route.
Venues
Australia
Australia has some excellent sport climbing areas, and from time to time some of the hardest climbs in the world are established by either locals, or visitors such as Wolfgang Güllich.
Major sport climbing areas:
France
France was the birthplace and longtime champion of hard sport climbing in the 80s and 90s. This was partially due to their rock not being suitable for traditional type routes. In France, sport climbing and bouldering are very popular and competitive climbing is big business. Blessed with limitless limestone and balmy weather, there are many sport routes to be climbed in France.
Major sport climbing areas:
Some of the hardest routes in France:
All of these routes (except Realization) were first climbed by frenchman Fred Rouhling. Hugh is the only one of his routes to have seen a repeat and was confirmed at 9a.
Germany
Many consider Germany to be the next country after France to embrace sport climbing.
Notable climbers:
Major sport climbing areas:
Some of the hardest routes in Germany:
Many world class routes in the 8b+/9a/9a+ range are in nearby Austrian Tyrol.
Korea
Sport climbing in Korea is getting more and more popul
West Virginia Rock Climbing Walls and Gyms
West Virginia Rock Climbing Walls and Gyms with descriptions, features, contact information.
West Virginia Rock Climbing | Southern West Virginia CVB
Rock climbing in West Virginia. Choose from a variety of rock climbing and rappelling outfitters.
West Virginia Rock Climbing and Rappeling - Songer Whitewater Rafting
Rock climbing trips in West Virginia. Guided rock climbing and rappelling trips.
West Virginia Climibing - Guided Rock climbing
Guided Rock Climbing trips in West Virginia ... Rock Climbing/Rappelling. Not only is West Virginia home to America's Best Whitewater, it can also lay claim to some of America's ...
Introduction: Guide to Rock Climbing in West Virginia
West Virginia Rock Climbing. West Virginia is among the most highly rated climbing destinations ...
West Virginia Rock Climbing: Cottages, cabins, lodging
West Virginia is one of the fastest rock climbing destinations in the east, and for good reason. There are thousands of great rock climbing areas, many of which are very new and ...
Guided Rock Climbing Trips in West Virginia - River Expeditions
New River Gorge rock climbing trips in West Virginia.
Powell's Books - Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland ...
The Mid-Atlantic states of Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland host some of the finest rock climbing in the country. This guide features over 1,000 routes at more than 20 areas ...
west virginia Photography : Rockclimbing.com : Rock Climbing Photos ...
Rockclimbing is a community website for climbers to find resources, including pics, photos & images related to west virginia
west virginia Videos : Rockclimbing.com : Rock Climbing Movies & Video ...
Divetime is a community website for scuba divers to find resources, including movies, videos & clips related to west virginia